內外滿洲之旅(七)赤塔、伯力

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赤塔(Чита)火車站

六月廿九日(三)赤塔

午一點,火車抵達赤塔,心中湧現的不是初到貴境的興奮,而是等待大學考試放榜的焦慮。火車站不能上網,疾趨旅館去。旅館老闆娘只識一點點英文,本來我的「俄語極度有限公司」足以應付,但是檢查成績在即,心煩意亂,不想動腦,便用旅館電腦Google Translate協助。老闆娘正在訓練新員工,行事自然較慢,偏偏她諸多疑問,既糾纏於我入俄境首晚入住哪間旅館(答案:無,在往騰達鄉火車上,見本系列第五篇海蘭泡篇),又參酌我的名字用俄文怎麼拼寫,又問名字裏的「Sun」字應讀成「申」抑「soon」。在她不斷向我拋問題時,我亦不斷連接互聯網。

終於,入宿手續辦妥,考試成績亦公布了-

「以下考生業於各科考核達致考官滿意,應予及格,並授證書」

之下有我的學號。旋即知會香港律師行合格結果,依約七月十一日履新。半年以來憂心忡忡,此刻放下心頭大石,感銘先祖庇佑與好友年來提攜包容(光臨敝筆談者才能讀到這一句)。我當然不會鳴鑼打鼓慶祝,我「只做實事」,立即訂購之前看定的韓國機票,為內外滿洲之旅加個番外篇(後篇),務求用盡開工大吉前的假期,盡量充實此番終極(第三次)畢業旅行。是次留赤塔僅六小時,預訂旅館只為上網查核成績、沐浴和放置物品,床位根本無關痛癢,前卻訂錯單人房,枉費幾十元,但此刻心情暢快,不作計較。因前晚在北海濱列帆港山間旅館無得上網(見本系列第六篇北海篇),只能草草擬就本市行程。

TripAdvisor網上居首的景點十二月黨人博物館。赤塔在一八五一年設鎮,是十二月黨人流放苦役之地,關於十二月黨人革命簡介亦可參閱上篇。赤塔苦工從事礦產,開展貿易,取代附近尼布楚的商埠地位。但該館偏離市中心,恐匆忙不得。赤塔在俄史上較著名的另一章是作為「遠東共和國」首府。十月革命後蘇俄政權草創,全國各地發生內戰,紅軍白軍交鋒,並曾惹來西方國家出兵干涉。三兩年後,紅軍取得上風,大致平定全國乃至西伯利亞地方,蘇聯成立遠東共和國臨時政權控制亞洲廣大領土。後來日本勢力撤出,一九二二年十一月十五日,蘇聯正式成立,遠東共和國撤銷並併入俄羅斯蘇維埃社會主義聯邦共和國。一九四五年後,赤塔曾短暫囚禁第二次世界大戰日本戰犯。關於這兩段政治歷史,市面遺跡不多。看到第四位的「扎倉」(Дацан)卻大感興趣,決定飽餐一頓之後前往。

果然,赤塔佛寺是藏傳佛寺格局,主堂是仿藏建築,裏面佛教陳設司空慣見,若非天氣炎熱,兩旁茂樹成蔭,真疑自己置身西藏。主堂四周側室對稱並列,是仿中國建築,猶似歐西各國看見的「中國風」(Chinoiserie)建築,近側室處有蒙古包陪襯。是處藏漢蒙建築共冶一爐,配上俄文招牌,極之「國際化」。

俄國疆域直抵中亞蒙古,自然統治不少亞洲部族,其中西伯利亞(不計俄羅斯族)最大部是布里亞特族(Буряад),人口五十萬,屬蒙古族分支,聯合國教科文組織將布里亞特語列作瀕危語言,若不及時發揚,或被俄語蒙語完全取代。俄羅斯聯邦下設布里亞特共和國(俄Республика Бурятия、布Буряад Улас),首府烏蘭烏德,我估性質近似中國的民族自治區。當然,他們的民族自治和中國的民族自治是否等同,則非本文能議。語言推理題:蒙古語中,「烏蘭烏德」解「紅色的烏德河」,中國「呼和浩特」解「青色的市鎮」,那麼中國「烏蘭浩特」為何?

佛教源於公元前一世紀的鐵器時代印度,千年來播及整個東亞,連華北的匈奴鮮卑契丹等族均受影響,但佛教大舉傳入西伯利亞時要數十七世紀。近日書局推出日本岡田英弘教授的《從蒙古到大清-遊牧帝國的崛起與承續》,講述滿清如何籠絡蒙古,結成滿蒙聯盟進而入主中國,其中一大精神工具就是藏傳佛教。藏傳佛教經喀爾喀蒙古(外蒙古)傳入西伯利亞。一七二二年,清俄設立邊禁,俄國境內蒙古族皈依的佛教自成一「布里亞特佛教」。「扎倉」(Дацан)泛指蒙藏及西伯利亞等地的佛教格魯派學府,兼具修道院功能。一七四一年,沙皇葉卡婕琳大帝頒旨承認「喇嘛教」,俄國佛教得官家照准。蘇聯紅色恐怖時期佛教曾遭整肅,例如受佛教影響更深的蘇聯衛星國蒙古人民共和國,首都庫倫的佛寺只關剩一座,且不准大事傳教。蘇聯解體後,宗教逐漸自由,一九九二年,達賴喇嘛訪問圖瓦共和國,即蘇俄從蒙古併吞的唐努烏梁海。總之,在俄國得見佛門淨地,更能體認佛教堪當世界三大宗教。

俄國伊斯蘭教址倒不是沒有,前年遊俄也曾參觀喀山克里姆林的清真寺(見字.遊俄羅斯遊記),但這當然不如東正教堂好找。赤塔人口三十二萬,還不及一個沙田,雙層巴士當然沒用武之地。市內公共交通主賴專線小巴(маршрутка),車身白色,前窗有路線號碼,側窗標示大致路線,車內有十幾座位。下一目的地是火車站外的喀山聖母大教堂,只要認住「вокзал」(火車站)字樣準沒錯。我當然是車上唯一亞洲人,甚至是唯一外地人,有位俄國老婆婆主動教我怎樣下車。大教堂裝潢簡潔,牆身抹以淡藍,倒像濃縮了一片天,俾信徒藉以溝通上帝。

沿列寧格勒大街步向市中心。赤塔是俄羅斯外貝加爾邊疆州首府,自少不得蘇式州府大廈和州府廣場的列寧像。另一蘇聯勝蹟是奧多拉文娛公園。園中陳列舊時坦克火炮戰機,三尺孩童遊戲其間身手矯捷,沒有絲毫懾於凶器的殺氣,年紀細細,已深具「戰鬥民族」之風。有位攀爬在潛艇上的俄國小童對我揮手燦笑,我舉起相機留影,他笑得更開懷,希望第日他從軍的話也是「善良的槍」。也許時間能沖淡殺氣,昔日反撲納粹德軍的T-34坦克和喀秋莎火砲,與暴君史太林一起受當今俄人的親善甚或頂禮膜拜。

遊興正酣,而分秒漸逝,準備即將四十二小時火車旅程的糧水要緊,便在旅館外超市掃貨,大包小包塞入行裝。退房,諸事八卦的老闆娘訝異,問將何之,答:「Хабаро’вск(夏罷窩vsk)」,曰:「哦,Хаба’ровск(夏巴華vsk)!」原來我一直讀錯重音。

七月一日(五)伯力

四十二小時車程後,火車駛過伯力大橋。大橋橫跨黑龍江,一九一六年落成,構成西伯利亞鐵路命脈。伯力(哈巴羅夫斯克),街上標語自詡「俄遠東首府」,我謂亦係「俄遠東蚊蠅之都」。因為兩日在車上不能洗澡,致抵埗後旋即有十幾廿隻小飛蟲如影隨形窮追不捨,於是接下來幾小時略遊都無精打采。車站前有哈巴羅夫斯克立像,不消多說,伯力俄名得自此人。哈巴羅夫(Ерофей Павлович Хабаров)是沙俄早期哥薩克征服者,曾率領兩次「阿穆爾遠征」。一六五O年第二次阿穆爾遠征,哈巴羅夫行旅駐扎今伯力附近,與土著發生衝突,土著向北京的康熙皇帝求助,清廷調遣寧古塔(今黑龍江寧安)二千滿洲及朝鮮軍增援,竟遭敗績,滿人主將海色軍法處死。可是哈巴羅夫一來不清楚滿清底細,二來沒有沙俄政府奧援,不敢輕舉妄動,最後沙俄只封給他一個小爵位。

伯力位於烏蘇里江與黑龍江交匯處,為女真等通古斯部族世居,唐朝時隸黑水都護府,明朝隸奴兒干都司,滿洲人將此地命名「伯力」,即滿語之碗豆,或為象徵地形。一六八九年清俄簽訂《尼布楚條約》,以外興安嶺為界,伯力屬於滿清無疑。伯力火車站外阿穆爾樹蔭大道直接黑龍江邊,江邊是文教區域,有阿穆爾州立博物館,票價三百五十盧布,學生優惠只適用於留俄學生,即使看懂幾隻俄字也佔不了便宜。博物館經擴建,分新館舊館,舊館主講自然科學,如黑龍江一帶水土物種;新館主講歷史,大方展示尼古拉.穆拉維耶夫.阿穆爾斯基將軍侵奪外滿洲的英雄事蹟。順帶一提,俄人稱黑龍江為阿穆爾河,「阿穆爾」據說是當地遊牧部族語,意即「汝迷路乎?」穆拉維耶夫時任東西伯利亞總督,極力推進沙俄東擴,一八五八年乘滿清陷於英法聯軍之役,脅迫黑龍江將軍奕山簽署條約割讓黑龍江以北疆土,一八六O年北京條約,沙俄再奪烏蘇里江以東疆域,劃為濱海省,該總督因功勛殊異,獲沙皇尼古拉一世賜姓阿穆爾斯基。「斯基」是斯拉夫語的常用形容詞詞根,意謂「之、的」。

博物館外有該阿穆爾將軍立像,他顯得威風凜凜,對中國虎視眈眈,亦勸愛國人士勿胡亂與之興奮合照。雖然俄國攫取伯力,當地與中國淵源並沒完全割斷。一九四五年日本戰敗,滿洲國康德皇帝溥儀準備乘飛機出逃,卻被蘇聯紅軍逮個正着,與其他日本關東軍及七三一部隊遣送伯力。一九四九年中共建政,蘇俄將溥儀送回中國,關押旅順戰犯管理所。立像旁觀景台,有兩對俄國新人拍攝婚照,似乎俄人對「浪漫」的看法與眾不同。

夜十一時,登上西伯利亞鐵路最後一段,直奔海參崴。有幾十個身穿水手軍服的俄國男子同車,再瞧瞧他們的行李袋,寫着「武裝力量(оружие силы)」,想必是海軍,他們似乎相當雀躍,而一心想休息的我卻覺得他們煩厭……

 

丹京遊學記(卅二)口試提綱

上篇考期篇提及丹京大學「西史大審判」科口試提綱,除作格式修改及略去個人資料,完整公諸同好品評。茲根據維基百科資料精要梳理,俾於三案有一粗略概念。

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(維基圖)反猶太漫畫

戴浮士案(Affaire Dreyfus)發生在十九世紀末。一八九四年九月,法國情治機構聲稱一名混入德國大使館的清潔大嬸間諜獲得一份手寫文獻,文獻中一名法軍表示願意提供法國砲兵軍事機密。剛好戴是砲兵軍官,且他祖籍廿幾年前割讓德國的德語區,加上猶太身份,軍中草率了結,認定戴是叛徒,並在報章煽動反猶太情緒。戴提告雷恩軍事法庭,庭上三名鑒證專家認為筆跡有疑,但法官早有定論,採納另一名沒有筆跡鑒證經驗的偵探學家意見,一致判處叛國,終身流放,褫奪軍銜。逾旬後新任情治機構首長認為真正叛徒另有其人,但總參謀部以案件已經定讞,為保法軍榮譽,不得翻案。這位首長更被遠謫突尼斯,他決定鬧大事情,投書法國總統。一八九八年,法軍開庭重審,不惜捏造證據,維持原判。作家佐拉(Émile Zola)憤而向總統致公開信,題為《J’accuse》(I accuse)。案件幾番重審,戴不堪司法程序纏繞,放棄上訴而獲特赦。後來左派政府上台,戴獲平反,恢復軍銜,並授勳章。

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(維基圖)漢娜鄂蘭《平庸之惡》

艾哈曼案發生在第二次世界大戰之後。阿道夫・艾哈曼是納粹軍官,一九三四年已籌辦後來惡名昭彰的柏林達豪集中營,一九四二年參與萬湖會議,制訂滅絕猶太人的「終極方案」,並實際參與執行。德國戰敗,艾哈曼遁逃阿根廷,一九六O年被以色列「強力部門」摩薩德綁架,「以自己的方式」前往以色列,國際譁然,以色列總理讚揚情治部門捕獲元奸大惡。翌年艾哈曼在耶路撒冷提審,多名大屠殺倖存者作供,艾哈曼以上司命令為理由抗辯,企圖將一切罪過推在已死的希特拉等人身上。最後他以絞刑處死。漢娜鄂蘭就此案創造「平庸之惡」的概念。

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(網圖)田納西𤠣子案耶教基要派

田納西猴子案發生在一九二五年。當時美國田納西州頒令禁止教授「進化論」。生物科教師史高壯(John Scopes)犯禁被告,此案成為美國史上首宗利用大氣電波向全國廣播的審訊。初審法官引導陪審團無須質疑法案本身,只須判斷史有否犯法。史的代表律師辯才極佳,將控方證人盤問得啞口無言,但法官宣布該盤問與本案無關,不必記錄。陪審團商討九分鐘,判史有罪,僅罰一百美元,而這個金額本身亦是隨意而不合法的。史上訴至州最高法院,陳詞說法案違憲,侵犯公民言論自由、宗教自由、學術自由,敗訴。一九六七年州議會撤銷法案。

Great Trials in Western Legal History

Synopsis

白田 (May 21 9:00)

Number of characters: max 11700

 

Cases: Eichmann, Monkey, Dreyfus

Theme: Law is a human invention. It is never perfect. Thus while adherence to law is often vital, it is not necessary nor sufficient for the purpose of justice. There ought to be higher principles.

  • It is said that law is written morality and morality is unwritten law. Morality determines what is good and what is not. Being moral is being good. However, from the following three categories and representative cases, it can be seen that the application of law does not guarantee just outcome.
  • Justice is a very elusive concept whose definition varies across time and between authors. At the expense of oversimplification, this synopsis adopts the plain and ordinary meaning – namely that the innocents and criminals receive their deserved legal treatment. I would determine the justice of a case by modern standard, with the benefit of hindsight. Legal correctness, on the other hand, is defined as adherence with the procedural law as of the relevant time, not as of the modern times.
  1. There are cases being legally wrong and morally unjust.
    • This is the gravest type of miscarriages of justice. The trial of Dreyfus is a notorious example, being “one of the first tests of modern pluralist liberalism and its institutions” (The New Yorker, Trial of the Century).
    • After Enlightenment, Revolution and Napoleonic legal reform, the law should have attained an almost modern standard. L’affaire Dreyfus took place at the dawn of modernity in France and represented a grave deviation even from the law at that time.
    • From the very start, there is a plain breach of presumption of innocence (Woolmington v DPP, golden thread). Dreyfus was chosen as the scapegoat because of his republican meritocracy background and Jewish and Alsatian origin. Without tangible conclusive evidence, he was arrested and interrogated day and night in solitary confinement. The French army further leveraged the pre-eminent anti-Semitism in society and the media (Le Figaro, La Libre Parole) to maneuver public opinion against Dreyfus.
    • The evidence was framed up against Dreyfus. While the handwriting experts had reservations, the military arranged more experts in search of a desirable finding. The pseudo-expert Alphonse Bertillon went so far as to invent the “auto-forgery” theory.
    • Dreyfus was first denied of the right to public hearing on national security reason. In the closed trial, the prosecution handed in a secret dossier with “Scoundrel D” implicating Dreyfus, who had no right to defend himself regarding this piece of detrimental evidence.
    • The military staff, represented by General Mercier, had vested interest in condemning Dreyfus as a traitor. Their election of closed trial verifies such intent. It means Dreyfus could not have the right to fair trial.
    • The wrongdoers kept doing more wrongs to cover up their initial wrongs. The military staff suppressed the new evidence and even acquitted the real culprit, Esterhazy. In Zola’s trial the court deliberately isolated Dreyfus and Esterhazy cases to avoid any judicial rehabilitation. In 1899 retrial the military rejected the last chance to redeem itself and convicted Dreyfus again. Maintaining the superficial glory of the French army, in a time of internatioal hostility, was of utmost importance. Justice and truth is secondary.
    • The role of media is worth attention too. Although in the beginning, the French mass media was hostile to Dreyfus, on the balance, it eventually saved him. Without mass media, “J’accuse” (1898) would not have circulated to stimulate the emergence of Dreyfusards (and anti-Dreyfusards) and the European public arouse. As a side note, the case testifies the importance of (freedom of) press in safeguarding individuals’ rights and justice.
    • The reasons behind this outrageous miscarriage of justice are multifold, but the case primarily shows that nationalistic sentiments are often irrational and prevent good judgment. The prevailing political atmosphere, namely anti-Semitic and anti-German hysteria, accounts for the tragedy. In fact, given the overwhelmingly high conviction rate in France, it is likely Dreyfus’s case represents only a fraction of the problem.
    • It is clear that but for the long chain of procedural violations, Dreyfus, though still in a socially discriminated group, would not have been convicted for treason and sentenced to life. The lesson to take is never to let emotion override reason. Therefore, adherence to law can be vital for achieving justice.
    • It is argued the trials of Scottsboro Boys also fall within this category. Modern instances include Guantanamo Bay suspects who are detained and maltreated without trial.
  2. There are cases being legally correct but morally unjust.
    • In comparison, this category of cases at least demonstrate substantive adherence to the pre-existing law. I say “substantive adherence” because in most of the trials there are still procedural violations, but they are immaterial to the final outcome of the case. Rather the content of the law is the key factor. Formal correctness does not mean these trials are less hazardous. The fact that they are procedurally correct means the injustice is more obscure and takes much longer time to be noticed and redressed. The “bizarre case” (Tennessee Supreme Court) of Scopes Monkey is one example. It is a great trial as it demonstrates various social fault lines in the United States and possibly the modern world – tradition vs modernity; religion vs science; urban vs rural.
    • Scopes, a biology teacher, is charged under the Butler Act of Tennessee, for teaching his students evolution theories.
    • There are several procedural irregularities. Judge Raulston was biased, as he ruled Scope’s expert evidence inadmissible and excluded Bryan’s damaging testimony. He also asked the jury not to judge the merits of the law, but only whether Scopes violated the law as it was. The twelve-member jury was also potentially biased, as it was composed of ten mostly middle-aged farmers and eleven regular churchgoers who were likely more conservative and pro-religion.
    • However, it is argued the above procedural issues are immaterial in the outcome of the case. In any event, since Scope was prepared to challenge the law, he would have supplied the incriminating evidence. Then, given the stated law, even an impartial judge and jury would likely have to conclude with a conviction. In fact, Darrow, acting for Scopes, invited the jury to return a verdict of conviction so that he might appeal to Tennessee Supreme Court. The refusal of the court to declare the law void is arguably a wrong judgment but not a procedural error. To sum up, the law was to a large extent applied correctly.
    • Scopes did not achieve his goal to challenge the constitutionality of the Butler Act, as the Supreme Court skillfully rejected all appeal grounds on legislative intent, judicial deference and public-private distinction, but then overturned the decision on a mere technicality and once-and-for-all dismissed it.
    • Fortunately this case does not involve grave consequences for any party. Scopes could at most have lost US$100. But the relatively hilarious story does not fail to show one thing – adherence to the law does not guarantee just outcome. The reason is that the law can be unjust, and it is often the case. Here, the Butler Act represents the final effort by the revivalists to defend “traditional values” against the progress of science. It clearly violates freedom of speech (Federal Constitution 1st Amendment) and promotion of science. (Tennessee Constitution). The state intervention in the form of criminal statute necessarily jeopardises the minority’s right in having their doctrine heard by public. To sum up, the content of the law is unjust and any correct application of it would not lead to justice.
    • It is argued the trials of Socrates, Jesus, Thomas More, Salem witchcraft and Roger Casement also fall within this category. In these trials legal procedures are partially breached but most importantly, the law itself sits uncomfortably with modern principles (e.g. freedom of expression and religion) and rules (e.g. rules of evidence) and becomes an oppression tool for those in authority. This category has the most numerous cases and significant modern implication, such as civil disobedience.
  3. There are cases being legally wrong but morally just.
    • A relatively rare instance is where the legality is problematic but the final outcome is, at least in the eyes of the public, morally just. The Eichmann trial is one example. Historically it must be a great trial since it constitutes the final episode of the bloodiest war of humanity. Legally it is also great as it invokes many thoughts about international law and war justice.
    • On the legal point of view, this trial is very problematic.
      • Eichmann faced fifteen charges under the new 1950 Nazi and Nazi Collaborators (Punishment) Law, which has retroactive application. This is inconsistent even with the thin sense of rule of law. The Israeli claim that it represents the whole Jewry in the past and at present (Hausner, Israeli leading prosecutor) to justify its jurisdiction is highly artificial. It is hard to see why a newborn state could have enacted new laws to punish foreigners who committed wrongs outside their territory. The jus cogens principle sounds more persuasive, but Hannah Arendt is correct in proposing the arena of an international court, although its composition and impartiality is still open to question.
      • The means of arrest (kidnapping) violates state sovereignty and is obviously unlawful.
      • The problem of judge in his own cause is apparent. Many of the judges are German or Polish born Jews whose relatives and friends likely suffered Nazi persecution. Their capability to exercise impartial reasoning is at least an issue, avoiding apparent justice (seen to be done).
      • During the trial, the horrors of the Holocaust, which may be irrelevant and prejudicial to Eichmann’s case, were shown to affect the court. Other Nazi members were barred to be defence witnesses, precluding otherwise relevant and favourable evidence.
    • Although at any time of human history the court is a branch of political power backed by the triumphant army and police, in this trial the issue of “victors’ justice” is particularly acute. As Hannah observes, from the very start, this trial is destined to be a political show trial. The prosecution famously addressed, “it is not an individual that is in the dock at this historic trial, and not the Nazi regime alone, but anti-Semitism throughout history.” In my opinion, the trial and execution of Eichmann merely serves populist and retributive function, at the expense of breach of international law. There ought to be better ways, for example, the international community could have exerted pressure on the Argentinian government. Impractical and time-consuming it may sound, the integrity of international law should not be easily sacrificed. In Thomas Merten’s words, political crimes ought to be dealt with politically.
    • Nonetheless, people still perceive the trial as just because under the pre-existing international law, this might be the best way to bring Eichmann to justice. Argentina had a notorious record of not extraditing Nazi criminals (Hannah). Israel, a newborn state in urgent need of legitimacy and patriotism, found no alternative than to kidnap and swiftly prosecute Eichmann. To let Eichmann free is against human conscience and one aspect of criminal justice since Hammurabi – retribution. The more accepted view is that Eichmann’s guilt against the Jews is established beyond doubt and that he got his deserved punishment. Thus to apply the ordinary meaning of justice, this trial is more likely just than not, and is an example showing that adherence to law is not necessary for achieving justice.
    • It is argued the Nuremberg trials also fall within this category. Similarly the Nuremberg principles are the victors’ law with retrospective effect, though, in my opinion, they are less controversial.

Logically, there is a fourth category of cases which are both legally correct and morally just. The trial of the corrupted Roman governor Verres is probably an example. We only have one-sided information about this trial and even so some of Cicero’s litigation tactics may look questionable in modern days (e.g. speeding up prosecution process). Nevertheless, overall it is a satisfactory trial and requires little discourse for the purpose of this synopsis.

  • This synopsis can therefore be summarised in a simple logic logarithm – “IF the law is just AND it is applied correctly, THEN the outcome is just.” Therefore,
    • IF the outcome is NOT just, then

      • the law is NOT just AND/OR (Category 2)
      • it is NOT applied correctly (Category 1)
    • IF the outcome is just, then

      • it MAY OR MAY NOT be that the law is just and it is applied correctly (Category 3)

        Adherence to the law is often essential because doing so can at least avoid Category 1 injustices. It is however not sufficient to guarantee justice because the law itself can be unjust, as shown in Category 2 cases. It is also not necessary for achieving justice, seen from the imperfect example of Eichmann trial. To conclude, law is a human invention but not panacea to all human problems. There ought to be “the law of the laws”, comprising of higher values such as fairness, liberty and other notions of justice.

丹京遊學記(卅一)考期

五月九日(六)雜務

完成斯堪地那維亞苦行,腿痠足痛,回宿休息。信箱寄到遲來三月的紫色居民身份證,學生簽證有效期內不必辦出入境許可,雖然之前為挪威之旅辦的許可也是聊備一格,最終也沒人查驗,今年歐洲難民危機波及北歐,未知各國之間是否重設關卡。另外,北歐銀行也寄來新提款咭,只是在丹京的日子不多了,此咭將在東歐巴爾幹波羅的海等地派上用場。既係「遊學」,「遊」後仍須「學」,且本學期是本科生涯末學期,須在丹京賺夠學分轉回香港才能畢業,為合格故,不容有失。接着幾日,準備「西史大審判」科的口試提綱,須就兩至三場課堂上曾討論的大審判撰寫要領供考官備閱,屆時口試考官將就所選兩場大審判詳細問詢,亦可能觸及其餘審判中爭議相關者。我選的三場審判關於法國猶太兵員戴浮士(Alfred Dreyfus)、德國軍官艾哈曼(Otto Adolf Eichmann)和美國生物科教師史高壯(John Scopes)。

五月十三日(三)博物館日

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(維基圖)《夏夜斯加恩灘頭-藝術家與妻》(Sommeraften ved Skagens strand. Kunstneren og hans hustru)

星期三,丹京幾間博物館免費開放,考試臨近留京溫習之餘,亦把握這日盡量學習西方歷史藝術文物。希斯本畫廊(Den Hirschsprungske Samling)近國家畫廊(見本系列第六篇:避禍、嘉士伯),一九一一年落成,展出煙商希斯本捐出的私藏,主要是近世丹麥藝術黃金時期畫作,其中斯加恩畫派作品尤多。斯加恩畫派(Skagensmalerne)泛指十九世紀末聚居在斯加恩(見上篇斯堪地那維亞篇)的北歐畫家,彼等嚮往當地光景,取法巴黎新興的印象派畫風,脫出學院派而別樹一幟,在時間上接續十九世紀初開始的丹麥藝術黃金時期。斯加恩畫派佼佼者是Peder Severin Krøyer,他的《夏夜斯加恩灘頭》(上圖)也在此館,另一Julius Paulsen的畫也不錯,其淡藍金色調很能拿捏「浮光躍金、靜影沉璧」的妙處。斯加恩博物館當然收藏最多斯加恩畫,但窮學生趁周三來丹京希斯本畫廊,不費分毫亦看得到好畫。

鄰近國會有拖華臣博物館(Thorvaldsens Museum)。拖華臣不是收藏家,而是雕塑家,該館收藏的就是他的新古典主義雕塑,主要題材為希臘神話,所以博物館建築模仿希臘式。我頗喜歡讀書,但是各式神話幾乎一點不沾,只歎如入寶山空手回。

第三次認真逛國家博物館(Nationalmuseet),是亦留學首都之一大佳處,且丹京遊人不算太多,不似倫敦人滿為患,倘若當初留學倫敦,恐亦不願時時跟全世界遊客擠入大英博物館。今次主要看中世紀至文藝復興期文物,此類文物遍及全歐,風格亦無大異,可作溫故知新。然後順便到丹京大學法律圖書館借得國際商法科課本。整個學期未曾為此科揭一頁書,今次借書唯一目的是應付翌日開始的七十二小時論文考試。在圖書館查電郵,發現全部考期已經公布,於是心不在讀書焉,即訂下之前看中的壞人航空(RyanAir)英國愛爾蘭特價機票,並將行程大綱告訴英國同學,彼將應考絕大多數同學聞之色變的衡平法(equity&trust),免瀆清聽,簡單交代後擇日再議。

大衛美術館(Davids Samling)在玫瑰宮花園旁,館址是丹麥最高法院大律師、商人兼收藏家大衛的故居,換言之館藏亦建基於他捐出的私藏。逢星期三免費入場且開放至夜九點。但是從名字看不出來者,原來此館亦以公元八至十九世紀整整千年伊斯蘭文物見稱,冠絕北歐,所以此館二OO九年翻新重開時,丹京《政治報》(Politiken)譽之為丹麥至獨特之博物館。雖然已經看了整日博物館,還覺得來大衛館是不虛此行,彷彿兩小時間重溫伊斯蘭發端至麥加麥地那繼而擴及三大洲而成為世界三大宗教之一的歷程。其餘歐洲室內陳設包括中國風和法國琺瑯,以及少量丹麥畫,則可看得隨便一些。

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考試季節:宿舍外望

五月十五日(五)抄考

天氣特佳,惟國際商法七十二小時筆試開始計時,不敢外出。全日寫成二千字左右,絕大部分源自謄寫課本,則如此進度實為慢。但求合格,毋庸創見,考題公布後三十六小時即行遞交,可謂事半而功成。

五月廿一日(四)口試告捷

赴首次口試,口試刺激(或不刺激)之處在於考官會幾乎即時告知成績,依例考官兩位,分別是本科教授及校外獨立評議委員。前面幾位慣常流連酒吧的歐洲同學面有難色,稱自己甚麼也答不上,但是眾人皆知合格總不成問題,聽過成績後也就一笑置之揚長而去。到我了,考官問題比較簡單和屬資料性質,偏重歷史知識,這方面尤其兩次世界大戰時期歐洲史的課外書我都讀過好些,至於評論部分只要記住平時教授與同學匯報所言拾其牙慧即可,所以二十分鐘口試就如跟教授聊天,轉瞬即逝,有時教授尚嫌我答得太長,意滿自得走出班房等待考官「閉庭商議」。半分鐘後,房門打開,考官給我甲等十二分,我仍大喜過望,感謝考官的慷慨。噫,在外國聊天廿分鐘便得一個甲等,在香港做個半死還僅保得個乙等(B-range),真是判若雲泥。既得考官認證合格,小弟將上載拙作提綱,俾知丹京大學考試要求。

五月廿三日(六)腓特烈堡

香港同學X已經完成所有考試,即將清理宿舍,展開暑期歐遊;無獨有偶,我將於翌日清晨飛往倫敦,完成英國愛爾蘭行程後將回丹京應考最後和最難的歐洲知識產權法口試,隨後亦會展開畢業旅行。換言之,這天是我們最後一次機會在丹麥結伴旅行,然後便會分道揚鑣各自返港。剛好我們都未去過距丹京北半小時車程的腓特烈堡(Frederiksborg Slot),於是我便丟那    的筆記,換上相機出發。 她也邀來小學同學K作三人行。

乘丹京城郊火車C線至總站Hillerød,腓特烈堡咫尺可達。腓特烈堡十七世紀初肇建,作丹麥挪威聯合王國離宮,一八五九年發生大火,一八八二年重修後闢作丹麥國家歷史博物館兼肖像博物館,參觀者可一睹丹麥「列祖列宗」的容貌,而我唯一認得的是當今女王伉儷陛下。

腓特烈堡譽為全北歐最美麗的城堡,城堡主體為文藝復興式,有紅磚山牆,極具荷蘭風格,鐵青色尖頂則類似大部分北歐教堂者。宮前有海神噴泉,象徵丹麥王國海軍盛極一時,惟一六五九年戰敗瑞典,整座噴泉拆件運往斯京后島宮重置,丹麥這座噴泉反係複製品。堡內洛可可式禮拜聖堂金碧輝煌,攝影不能錄其神采於十一;大禮堂(Riddersalen)雕梁畫棟,甚肖巴黎梵爾賽宮,現存廳堂是後來重建的。歷史博物館展品雖多,但解說甚少,很多更只有丹麥文,外國遊客若不事先做功課,只好租借耳機解說。當然,丹麥王朝號稱全歐至悠久者,意即朝代更替絕少,於是國史便難以如英法等國斷代,外人讀起來就好像一堆叫Christian和Frederik的男子輪流坐王位,而且丹麥雖然幾經戰亂,進入現代世界似乎沒有很大陣痛,第二次世界大戰期間被納粹佔領亦幾乎相安無事,於是整段國史似乎平平無奇。我亦覺得丹麥人自得其樂,毫不在意外人怎樣看自己,自然無需搜索史料甚麼影響世界的偉人,於是外人認識的丹麥人可能就是安徒生。儘管如此,北歐最美麗城堡稱譽,腓特烈堡猶實至名歸,遊人一場來到丹京,不妨抽一日時間來個西蘭島北之旅,兼遊腓特烈堡及克朗堡(見本系列第十八篇雙城記),也許會更明白丹麥何以堪當童話王國。

回程,原擬到克朗堡附近的路易斯安娜現代美術館外公園休憩,但同學說公園須憑博物館門票入場,就此作罷,回京晚餐。學校旁邊的土耳其餐廳高朋滿座,而我們肚餓等不得,轉往丹京植物園外的薄餅店。兩位女士點了香草火腿薄餅,餐後頻呼飽滯,我則覺還可以,或係幾月來自行煮食致食量大增之緣故。今夜歐洲歌唱大賽Eurovision決賽,學生屋樓上雅座早已爆棚,我們在樓下咖啡座小休,遇見在那裏當義工侍應的香港同學。在「九龍塘站」(Norreport)別了兩位女士,遂便回宿。雖然返港之期尚有月餘,但是俛仰之間,這片人間樂土與天上星夜,亦不得幾回見,隱隱然有離別意,真不知俟七月十日歸期將何如。回宿,美國室友已經睡了,我點起枱燈,低頭靜靜執拾便裝,明日清晨飛往倫敦。

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宿舍外大眾公園夜色,能帶得走嗎?

丹京遊學記(三十)斯堪地那維亞

四月三十日(四)理髮

星期四,又是準時五點半落堂。前得日本同學K教路,網上預約丹京理髮學院(Københavns Frisørskole)剪髮。六點鐘,男生單剪付四十九克朗,坐對梳妝鏡,一頭長亂絲。大概來自土耳其的學徒問我想怎樣剪法,我便亮出Google翻譯「kort」(短)一字,學徒點頭明白,隨即丹麥女導師走來,再問一次我想怎樣剪法,我只道「shorter, thinner」,她卻向學徒說了一大堆話,似乎是在指導學徒怎樣應付我這髮型,減輕災難程度。不消十五分鐘便回復短髮,覺學徒手勢尚可,只是用噴壺弄濕我的頭髮時也波及了臉,但是這種小瑕疵無傷大雅,事關在丹麥用四十九克朗理髮只能說超值。須知丹京一般男士理髮收費近二百克朗。反觀香港似乎只有廚藝學院餐廳,沒有理髮學院理髮店這種互惠互利的生意。然後當然立刻回宿洗頭,行經市政廳前,有尼泊爾地震追悼會。該場地震中一百二十五人罹難,尼國京城加德滿都重創,文物亦遭損毀。

五月一日(五)勞動節

五一勞動節,Arbejdernes kampdag,並非丹麥公眾假期,但很多機構包括公營企業和超級市場都會給員工放半日甚至全日假。其中宿舍旁邊的大眾公園(Fælledparken)更會人頭湧湧,平時空曠的草地逼滿攤檔和野餐市民。我也和幾位外國同學應節,消磨一個下午。為應付人潮,當局在公園設置流動公廁,這不稀奇,稀奇的是流動公廁並非只有香港郊野公園慣見那種藍色密閉亭子,更有男士專用開放式的⋯⋯雖然這樣能節省時間,但在公園男女眾目睽睽下小解終非易事,非有極急生理需要不為,而經朋友勸飲啤酒一二罐,我亦不得不迅速解決。

五月四日(一)北角

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丹京車站:同是天涯淪落人

開展斯堪地那維亞之旅,今趟行程將跡及丹麥瑞典挪威三國,故名。丹麥國土狹小,無臥鋪火車之設,然為省錢故,訂坐深宵出發朝早抵達的火車摺櫈位(klapsæde),七小時車程,亦費八十九克朗而已。深夜兩點,拖行李至火車站,站內遊人不堪疲累,睡倒牆櫈和麥當勞餐桌,頗有「同是天涯淪落人」之感慨。上車,幸好窮遊客只得我一個,於是效法丹麥人,全身躺臥連排摺櫈上,斷斷續續地睡,沒想像中難過。抵腓特烈港(Frederikshavn),轉車往私家銀鎮(Skagen)。前述丹麥語發音奇特,「g」字經常不讀,故不譯「斯加根」。往私家銀的通勤列車類似第廿八篇介紹往來里伯古鎮者,屬私營鐵路,不隸丹麥國鐵,須備丹京慣用的乘車咭(Rejsekort)另行購票。邇聞丹麥當局擬取消各地的指定次數乘車咭(klippekort)而一律改用Rejsekort,則丹麥全境更似一座大城市也。

私家銀鎮人口八千餘,苟非朋友交口稱譽,殊難注意。該鎮位在丹麥本土北極,從鎮中心步行大半小時抵灘頭北角(Grenen),即北海及波羅的海交匯處也。初段沿馬路前行,行李地上滾動無礙,但到灘頭,行李小輪沙地上動彈不得,唯有提起,於是後段步程須只十幾分鐘,卻如提着一包五公斤大米行沙灘,舉步維艱,毫無舒逸感覺。更甚者,天陰微雨,反映海上亦只得暗灰一片,僅可憑海濤方向辨出兩海大概分界。雖然,北角是丹麥畫家寫生的經典場景,若天青水碧,當引遐想,所以此地名氣播及北歐,有瑞典老夫婦來者,為我留影,而鎮上居民亦多友善微笑示我,亦屬不枉此行。至於私家銀鎮上博物館美術館等收費甚昂,亦無學生優惠,過門不入。原路返回腓特烈港,雖天色已轉晴,雙腿疲不能支,而港城上多係尋常商舖,故走入珊瑚酒店(Hotel Reef )「打躉」,一邊上網一邊等船,預備往下站而夜宿瑞典歌德堡。順帶一提,丹麥國內交通昂貴,迨無爭議,他朝不能再用丹麥國鐵青年優惠票(DSB Wildcard),則從丹京往北角者,應乘巴士取道瑞典西濱(Kattegat)及歌德堡再乘船渡海返回丹麥腓特烈港,如此仍費至少二三百克朗之譜,如無意外,決難重返。

五月五日(二)歌德堡

繼馬模、赫辛堡及斯京,第四次瑞典旅行,歌德堡(典Göteborg、英Gothenburg)是瑞典第二大城,人口近五十萬,以「汪汪」(Volvo)汽車聞名於世。整日多雨。有時規劃太多,一遇不測風雨便作廢。幸穿對了鞋。想來歐千百樣花費,最值的是風褸和厚鞋。旅館在市西崗上,有林蔭棧道,空氣澄涼,走着精神爽朗。穿過儼如市肺的城林公園(Slottsskogen),來到歌德堡植物園。兩年前首度歐遊,行程規劃得較為散漫,竟留了整整一星期在巴黎,市內主要宮殿博物館似已走遍,竟乘大好天氣往遊巴黎植物園,頓覺歐西人細心經營市容,愛護林木,舉凡大都會必有一主要植物園,若倫敦之海德公園及王家邱園、柏林之鳥獸園(Tietgarten)者,且不索分文,一任市民遊客享用。於是以後歐遊均盡量看看當地園林,一以吸收香港難得之淨氣,更以感受香港絕少之閒逸。植物園採用自願票價制,善長儘可依議付二十克朗支持園務,而我距成為善長尚有一大段物質與心理距離。星期二的早上,按理也不會看見多少打工仔行公園,且天陰微雨,園內遊人不過一老人團一幼兒團,在錦繡花木前,老少均興致勃勃,學習造化之奇。看完植物,便看動物。折返公園另一邊,正好上午十一點,歌德堡自然歷史博物館(Göteborgs Naturhistoriska museum)準時開門,廿五歲以下青年免費入場,有緣看到此文的青年同志趁早,剛好廿五歲卜卜脆的朋友不必嗟嘆,票價四十克朗而已。同樣,兩年前花兩三小時參觀倫敦自然歷史博物館,鱗羽爪角,化石古巖,眼界大開,盡日不足,於是以後歐遊亦多留意此類博物館。歌德堡館的大象、巨鯨、猛熊標本頗可觀,魚類貝殻標本藏量亦豐,規模堪比柏林者。

窮學生年代,不拔一毛乘公車,寧肯費一小時步往主城區。下起雨來,順道參觀同係廿五歲以下青年免費的市美術館(Göteborgs Konstmuseum),展廳皆寧靜寬敞,可以靜心賞畫。或許心馳神往,如廁時竟大意遺下相機,頃刻回去已不見,只好以運氣下注,賭他瑞典人誠實不欺。果然,博物館職員妥善保管我的相機,完璧歸還,是次歐遊相簿才不致中斷,由是對瑞典之欽佩傾慕益增。最後參觀市博物館(Göteborgs stadsmuseum),乍看似係倉庫,原來前身是「東印度大樓」(Ostindiska huset),即瑞典東印度公司總部也。世人多聞英荷東印度公司,咸知英屬印度與荷屬東印度之殖民歷史。一如歐洲諸國,瑞典曾經對中國衣冠文物趨之若騖,乃至於斯京后島宮特造中國式庭院點綴(見上篇斯京篇),茶葉瓷器炙手可熱,為進口大宗。一七三一年瑞典東印度公司(Svenska Ostindiska Companiet)於歌德堡成立,亦擬效法英荷故事,汲汲於經營中國印度貨物進口北歐的生意,甚欲染指非洲分一杯羹,但為荷蘭壓制,歸於無功。瑞典東印度公司得王家特許,經營好望角以東即印度洋航運,九十年間獲利頗豐,至一八二一年不敵競爭及航權開放結業,而瑞典於世界之角色似乎復歸沉寂。人云北歐維京故地,來茲不可不看維京船。看是要看,但不必破費往丹麥羅斯基利(見本系列羅斯基利篇)及挪威京專門博物館,歌德堡市博物館即有一大維京船遺跡,不過遺跡甚為破碎,苟非考古學家慧眼獨具,重新拼砌,實難辨出幾根破木條何足矜貴。傾盆勢已成,擔遮也無用,避雨商場,設法花光手上瑞典幣,一以購買瑞典郵票,二以兌換挪威克朗。恨北歐銀行提款咭不該壞時壞,平白給外匯銀行(Forex)賺了一筆。順帶一提,北歐生活方便,買郵票不用去郵局,瑞典便利店「報社」Pressbyrån售賣郵票車票,店員英語無礙,神店不可不知。

歌德堡這間青年旅館在瑞典有點特別,似乎廿四小時無休,如非登記入住,甚難「屈蛇」,取回行李,店員也不趕我走,我便提着行李到樓上飯廳暫息,順便淋浴,舒舒服服候到凌晨一點幾,步回市中心,乘深夜巴士往挪威京奧斯陸,結束第四次亦係末次瑞典行程。

五月六日(三)挪威精華遊上

凌晨兩點半登車,晨六點抵挪京車站,三小時車程中酣睡,醒來精神尚好,到便利店視察行情,一件袋裝雪芳蛋糕售三十九克朗,即港幣三十幾,各類麵包售價亦倍於德國柏林而逾丹京,暗忖阮囊羞澀,不住汗顏。友人前誡挪威極富,樽裝水亦售三十元之譜,今始驗之。自訂挪威精華遊(Norway in a Nutshell)行程早已妥當,火車八點半由挪京火車站開出,便乘一小時多空隙到港邊歌劇院(Operahuset),初則天色陰沉,不察歌劇院之美,才過十五分鐘,豁然開朗,則光影冷峻,堪比澳洲雪梨者。略遊市中心卡爾約翰大街(Karl Johans Gate)(按:「街」,丹麥語「gade」、瑞典語「gatan」、挪威語「gate」,三者並列,可知同源,恰又與廣東話「街(gai1)」略似)及大教堂,遂返回火車站,與香港親友通訊,知    母親大人學習西廚頗有進步,而我孤懸海外,料理簡餐似亦能勉強入口。

火車西行,穿過一段地下隧道,一半乘客左右張望,本地人與遊客立即可辨。初段右邊風景較好,至中段過後火車疾走高原,左邊雪山起伏,溪谿尤美,乘客之間頗能禮讓,不介意人家挨過身來拍照。火車駛到全國海拔至高的Finse站有廣播提示遊客。挪威鐵路東西幹線卑根線(Bergensbanen)東段山川形勝目不暇給,五小時車程似乎轉瞬即逝,車上一半乘客,即全部遊客,在梅藪(Myrdal)站轉乘拂朗霧線(Flåmsbana)。車站是間紅色小屋,內有紀念品店,惟遊客大多不感興趣,一心只想盡快搭上號稱全球最美鐵路的拂朗霧線,佔據左邊風景較佳座位,更鮮有如「字・遊」面書專頁編輯丁不惜重本在此留宿者。拂朗霧線僅長二十公里,自海拔八百幾米高總站梅藪拾級而下,縈紆飛瀑流泉,蜿蜒垂崖峭壁,頗振精神。車程僅半小時,索價三百四十克朗,不准議價,蓋因觀光列車裝潢典雅,數十年如一,不同的大概是車廂廣播有英法班俄多國語言,其實語多反生煩厭,不如好好享受窗外風景。

約下午三時抵拂朗霧(Flåm)。朋友說挪威精華遊可一日匆匆為之,亦可兩日舒泰為之,倘若兩日為之,最宜宿拂朗霧鎮,於是今日行程也大致完成。首先參觀車站旁的拂朗霧線鐵路博物館,免費入場,簡介鐵路開鑿和電氣化等沿革。事前沒有預訂住宿,因網上遊記說即場付費露營十分方便,略略搜尋似乎「Flåm Camping」營地收費一百一十五克朗,至是實惠,便拖着行李袋一心投宿。不意老闆劈頭便問:「有自備營帳乎?」答:「無。」曰:「然則不得露營,只能宿館,一晚盛惠二百四十克朗。」事後回想,二百四十克朗在挪威倒不算天價,本應答允,卻給一口氣累事,怨責網上報價欺我,一百一十五克朗原來是自備營帳的價,而二百四十克朗即登時貴了倍餘,遂便推辭。提着行李攀登過小山崗,崗上遍豎圍籬,為鄉民耕牧私人土地,籬笆上時有請願牌,說「No Cruise Ship, No Granda Navi(不要遊輪,不要巨艦)」,即反對遊輪旅遊業之語。返回鎮上不過下午五時,心想長夜漫漫,總不能露宿街頭?況且該營地似係此鎮至廉宜之旅舍,雖深深不忿,還是去吃回頭草,曰:「二百四十克朗,成了。」應曰:「二百四十克朗床位剛剛售罄,三百克朗床位適否?」不過半小時功夫,房價漲了整整四分一。回想今度歐遊五月餘,至貴一晚住宿是在盧森堡國際青年旅館,宿費廿五歐羅。三百克朗豈不要破紀錄!把心一橫,挪威民富國寧,難道憂他深夜行劫!況且傍晚天氣清涼,似乎受得住,決定孤身一人瞓街!鎮上有一超市Coop Marked,百物騰貴不在話下,僅牛奶(較丹京貴一倍)與粟米片(五十克朗)買得下手,便買來當今夜晚餐與翌日早餐。天色漸沉,沿馬路上溯,覓得避雨亭一所,折返鎮上旅客中心略略洗臉刷牙及充電電器,夜八時半「入宿」避雨亭。避雨亭,非香港郊野公園觀景亭那種宏亮光潔者,更非中國頤和園八角重簷攢尖頂者,更似路邊垃圾收集站低矮狹小者。

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拂朗霧露宿處

五月七日(四)挪威精華遊下

挪威北國,晝長夜短,避雨亭無街燈,夜十時許夜色籠罩,已不能讀書,夜十一時半進入黑夜。夜間天寒地凍,與日間溫差殊大,雖身穿風褸厚靴,瑟縮若毬,猶然陰寒透肌,加上所謂「晚餐」只是牛奶粟米片一簞,飢凍極切,而避雨亭之貼牆櫈寬僅二尺,成年人無能平臥其上而不墮者,漫漫寒夜,坐立不安,立則感氣衰力弱,坐則冷氣自石板櫈由臀入骨,心顫肌抖,由是深體露宿街頭之痛苦,亦我歷次旅遊經歷中最最難堪者!事後回想,為省三百克朗,折磨身體髮膚,且生出對挪威之惡感,實匪智也。然事過境遷,昔日糗事,今日不妨公諸同好,聊備笑資。

幸蒙上天庇佑,雖餐風露宿整整十小時,仍沒遘病,自覺體魄尚堪其餘行程。朝六時,天破曉,惟霧靄不散,望向峽灣景色一般,遙想若非中共強行造壩橫斷長江,三峽應更雄奇,且兩月前纔去過冰島,誠曾經滄海難為水之謂哉。朝八時,遊客中心開門,再次簡單梳洗和充電相機,俟朝九點往神壇村(Gudvangen)之輪船。船程一小時左右,艙裏也有廣播介紹岸上人文風情。雖然捱過一夜,仍昂首挺胸冒微雨在船頭拍照。兩岸猿聲不曾聽,客舟已過幾重山。遊人踏上神壇村,而挪威精華遊下一節往窩斯鎮(Voss)的巴士早已恭候,車次與船次接駁天衣無縫。在神壇村遇廣東獨行俠,重拾冷落多時的母語。他供職倫敦希斯路機場,剛剛去過波蘭,旋即投契。他身上只有信用咭,而不知窩斯巴士只收現金九十幾克朗,但司機也沒有拒載他(拒人於挪威荒野非善事呢),待他到窩斯往銀行提款補付算了。往窩斯一路崎嶇,十倍於港島大潭道或九龍飛鵝山道,雖未曾行蜀道,想蜀道之難亦不過如此,深歎司機車技嫻熟,而尚得閒情與遊客說笑,介紹道上風景,風景以左邊較佳。

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午兩點幾,別過粵男,逕自往窩斯鎮遊客中心,聞鎮外不遠有小峽谷,清泉激湍,甚沁體感,於是擱下行李,載走載奔,總得一睹地貌,極舒胸懷。隨即奔回遊客中心,職員知我徒步往返,不覺訝異,諒他不知我是香港人,否則或教他以為凡香港人皆爭分奪秒不肯稍息之輩歟!回窩斯車站,踏上挪威精華遊末節,往西面重鎮卑根(Bergen),此程風景以右邊較佳。

午四時抵卑根,車站宏大,設遊客中心,職員殷勤以待,將卑根名勝逐一講解,我不好意思打斷他,只待他說完,便細訴一句,「我待此幾小時而已,夜十一點乘車返京」,該職員仍笑意盈盈,祝我旅途愉快。由於來得太遲,很多博物館已經關門,況且卑根所聞名於世者,魚市場與山頂纜車也,故珍惜寸陰直趨之。到魚市場,竟重遇粵男,彼與另一江西南昌人正大嚼海蝦,想他沒有暫留窩斯鎮,直接轉乘火車,所以早我一小時抵埗的。彼等亦匆匆行人,粵男是夜飛返倫敦,乃結伴將遊。傍晚,魚市場不復朝早熱鬧,好些店舖已經收檔,仍然營業者多勞多得,碰上一團又一團中國旅客毫不在乎價錢,一擲千金要他百味海錯,伙計們包括一位廣東留學生一手盛蝦一手接錢,笑逐顏開。

然後我們乘山頂纜車(Fløibanen)去。山頂纜車單程四十三克朗,雙程八十五克朗,兩華男要趕飛機,買雙程票,我只買單程票。車程七分鐘,似不如香港山頂纜車陡峭,亦沒有香港那種自鬧市中樞一飛衝天扶搖直上「椰林樹影,水清沙幼」之對比感,則不宜妄自菲薄,說洋物必優於本地種。山頂忽下滂沱大雨,我等狼狽特甚,自拍拍人,回禮品部稍稍觀摩,便分道揚鑣,我目送兩男乘纜車下山。

我忘了問粵男在窩斯鎮有否往銀行提款補付車資。

至於我,在大雨中拖着行李緩緩下山,濕凍可知,而所有行李袋內預備衣物均擠得出水來,得物無用。約四十五分鐘返回鎮上世界文化遺產碼頭區(Bryggen),該處以漢薩木造商業建築聞名,今已改作博物館和高級餐廳等,名士富紳,衣香鬢影,金步搖搖,與我落湯雞窮學生格格不入,不如遁避。餓極之際,見北歐超市Rema 1000,買數片三文魚、番茄、雜穀包作晚餐,在超市門口席地執食,竟不失為上佳體驗,而旁人亦多體諒,不加白目。夜十一時,重登火車,得「早鳥優惠」,返京過夜火車僅費一百九十九克朗。雖然要坐着睡覺,但挪威國鐵十分體貼,送上吹氣枕頭,且車中不愁風雨,較諸昨夜,已稱安樂窩矣。

五月八日(五)挪京

挪京待我不薄,前日少駐,今日重臨,皆惠我以藍天。晨六點半抵挪京車站。瑞典之有Pressbyrån,亦如挪威之有Narvesen,亦買兩枚郵票留念。晨七點,遊挪京植物園,花卉爭妍鬥麗,紅底鑲白藍十字國旗迎風搖曳,一片祥和。晨九點,行到市政廳(Oslo rådhus)外,忽然砲聲隆隆,一時顫慄,原來挪京有操晨砲之習俗,亦如香港銅鑼灣避風塘之午砲。入市政廳梳洗,順便參觀。諾貝爾是瑞典人,諾貝爾獎多數獎項於斯京頒發,唯獨和平獎在挪京奧斯陸頒授,此諾貝爾遺囑者也。至於諾貝爾為何囑茲例外,則眾說紛紜,有說瑞典為北歐軍事大國(見本系列馬模篇、赫辛堡篇、斯京篇),屢興兵戎,不足世法,而挪威雖與瑞典一度結成聯邦,但總體可稱與世無爭,遂得青睞。於是,每年挪威國會選出五人諾貝爾和平獎委員會推舉得獎人,頒獎禮假挪京市政廳舉行,這個北歐「小國」曾因一張空櫈觸怒遠東「強國」,本應為座上客者至今猶是階下囚。和平獎得主未必個個恰如其份,例如美國總統奧巴馬走馬上任一年,竟以「促進邦交與民族合作功勛卓著」得獎,連他本人也不明所以,固然令人困惑,但是世界文明首善之國褒揚賢人,總勝假孔子之名獎勵獨夫。不唯和平獎,市政廳本身亦足稱道,壁繪挪威民俗神話,充滿國族氣息。遊歷斯堪地那維亞三國京城市政廳,覺丹京廳最古雅,斯京廳最華麗而稍摩登,挪京廳最摩登而不失莊重。現代建築有能如此,堪稱北歐風範。

挪威百物俱貴,獨博物館慷慨,逢星期四免費開放。我雖遇不着星期四,但是學生價三十克朗[1],便可參觀挪威國立藝術建築設計博物館(Nasjonalmuseet for kunst, arkitektur og design)轄下四間博物館,俱列如次。朝十點半,在國家畫廊購聯票,兼免費寄存行李,見畫廊人氣頗盛,先往他處。沿挪京中央卡爾約翰大街北上,新古典主義式王宮映入眼簾,王宮建築本身比較簡約,略輸丹京斯京,但宮前有空曠地,稍增氣勢。繞至宮後繼續北行,抵霍拿公園(Frognerparken)。此園最著名的是上世紀三四十年代古斯塔夫・維吉蘭塑造的逾二百座青銅大理石雕塑,合稱維吉蘭雕塑(Vigelandsanlegget),故旅遊書慣稱該地「維格蘭雕塑公園」,實則當地地名法案(stadnamnlova)並無此名。該等雕塑呈現人體隨一生之變化,頗富意味,當中以名叫「輪迴」的石柱(monolitten)至矚目。霍拿公園前身的莊園至今猶存,闢作挪京市立博物館(Oslo Bymuseum),免費入場。是日天色特佳,若時間充裕,大可閒度一個晌午。園旁有維吉蘭博物館(Vigelandsmuseet),有興趣者可購票詳知該雕塑家之經歷和作品。

下午憑聯票參觀四座博物館。近操晨砲的港灣堡壘有建築博物館(Nasjonalmuseet – Arkitektur),似丹京建築藝術中心專講當代建築與新潮流,其中一間展廳有積木,我忽拾童趣堆砌起來,又在畫簿亂描些中式亭台樓閣,恐後來者不知所以呢。隔街有現代藝術館(Museet for samtidskunst),建築本身頗厚重沉穩,裏面的所謂現代藝術則天馬行空,甚至荒誕不經,自非我等門外漢所能明瞭者。走過商街,義工邀途人免費擁抱,有男童人細鬼大,直撲美女胸懷,自娛娛人。午兩點半到裝飾藝術與設計博物館(Kunstindustrimuseet),類近丹京設計中心,以日常用具如杯盆器皿呈現的工藝為主旨,悅目之至。藝術必須與人的生活發生關係,於尋常物品處下心思,至能增加生活情趣。本來以為時間預算周全,孰知連續三夜不曾臥床,一旦坐下,眼簾遂閉,靜止如偶,醒來發覺自己在原處大半小時,真不知期間多少人看見我的睏相。因體力不繼失算,只能揀睇鍾意的主題展廳,例如新藝術(Art Nouveau)式作品。午四時,重返國家畫廊(Nasjonalgalleriet),戲肉是愛德華・孟克(Edvard Munch)的《吶喊》(Skrik),慣用whatsapp表情符號的人對此畫不會陌生。日本同學K曾裝起畫中人的鬼臉與畫中人合照,但今次來到孟克展廳,門口大刺刺寫着不准拍照,更有中年女看更緊盯着,無從入手,只能用眼去看。便取回行李,略遊京中各處。國會大樓(Stortingsbygningen)前有示威者揮舞奇怪旗幟,又懶得上前問問所執何事。市政廳臨阿克港區(Aker Brygge),前身是挪威最大船塢,一九八二年結業,經財團翻新成高尚消閒購物區,恰如丹京新港。富貴者可以入座露天餐廳極視聽口腹之樂,慳儉者可以幫䞋流動熱狗車雪糕車,窮學生如我可以拖着行李時行時止享受海風。

當然,晚餐總得要吃,再次在Rema 1000買一盒三文魚刺身。挪威物價之高經已領教,就三文魚一味比香港便宜,亦無足怪。晚十一時,登上過夜巴士,連續第四夜不能安枕,翌日返回丹京直奔宿舍,一頭栽上床鋪,呼呼大睡,好好回憶此趟斯堪地那維亞之旅。


[1] 壞消息:今年起,國立藝術建築設計博物館聯票加價,正價一百克朗,學生價五十克朗。慳家者可安排星期四遊挪京,仍可免費入場。